|
SETT
Sett is the number of warp ends per inch, a guideline for balanced weaves.
COTTON |
YARDS/POUND
|
WIDE |
MEDIUM |
CLOSE |
50/2 |
21,000 |
48 |
66 |
80 |
24/3 |
6720 |
22 |
26 |
30 |
20/3 |
5600 |
20 |
24 |
28 |
20/2 |
8400 |
26 |
30 |
34 |
16/2 |
6720 |
28 |
30 |
32 |
10/3 |
2800 |
14 |
18 |
22 |
10/2 |
4200 |
24 |
28 |
30 |
8/4 carpet warp |
1680 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
8/2 |
3360 |
20 |
24 |
28 |
5/2 |
2100 |
12 |
16 |
20 |
3/2 |
1260 |
12 |
14 |
16 |
LINEN
|
YARDS/POUND |
TABBY |
TWILL |
40/2 |
6000 |
24-30 |
36 |
20/2 |
3000 |
20-24 |
28 |
16/2 |
2400 |
18 |
24-28 |
10/2 |
1500 |
12-15 |
18 |
8/2 rug warp |
|
8-10 |
12 |
8/3 rug warp |
|
6-8 |
10 |
8/4 rug warp |
|
5-6 |
8 |
8/5 rug warp |
|
4-4 |
6 |
22/2 Cottolin |
3250 |
20-24 |
26-30 |
WOOL
|
YARDS/POUND
|
TABBY |
TWILL |
20/2 |
5600 |
20-24 |
28-32 |
18/2 |
5040 |
20-24 |
28-32 |
12/3 |
2240 |
15-18 |
20 |
12/2 |
3000 |
18-20 |
22-26 |
Harris tweed |
1800 |
10 |
12-15 |
7/2 |
1640 |
10-12 |
15 |
6/2 |
1600 |
10-12 |
12-15 |
2 ply |
1260 |
6-10 |
12 |
4 ply rug |
300 |
4-6 |
10 |
SILK |
WIDE TABBY |
MEDIUM TABBY |
TWILL |
8/2 |
20 |
18 |
22 |
12/2 |
20 |
18 |
22 |
20/2 |
26 |
24 |
28 |
30/2 |
32 |
30 |
34 |
60/2 |
70 |
66 |
72 |
Count System for size 1
Is the number of yards required to make 1 pound of size 1 cotton, linen or wool.
Cotton, spun silk, rayon |
840 |
Linen, hemp, jute, ramie |
300 |
Wool (cut system) |
300 |
Worsted Yarn |
560 |
Wool (Run system) |
1600 |
Size 2 indicates there is twice the yardage and half the diameter of size 2
Such as 2 x 840 = 1680 yards per pound
When two strands of a single or 1 ply are twisted together, it is known as a 2 ply. 4 strands as 4 ply, etc.
Another method to determine sett - Wind the warp yarn around a ruler for one inch. Wind the yarn firmly, evenly without stretching the yarn. Don't let the yarn overlap and don't leave spaces. Count the number of wraps in an inch. The sett is half of the number of wraps per inch for plain weave, since one has to allow space for the wefts to go between the warp yarns.
NOTE: If mixing yarns in a warp, wrap ruler with each yarn. |
|
To determine ends per dent in a chosen reed
Find reed size at top, follow the column down to your EPI, cross to find the order of sley in the far right column. |
#4 |
#5 |
#6 |
#8 |
#10 |
#12 |
#15 |
Order of sley |
1.5 |
2 |
2 |
3 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
0-0-1 |
2 |
2.5 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7.5 |
0-1 |
2.5 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
7 |
8 |
10 |
0-1-1 |
3 |
4 |
4.5 |
6 |
7.5 |
9 |
11.5 |
0-1-1-1 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
15 |
1 |
5 |
6 |
7.5 |
10 |
12.5 |
15 |
19 |
1-1-1-2 |
5.5 |
7 |
8 |
11 |
13 |
16 |
20 |
1-1-2 |
6 |
7.5 |
9 |
12 |
15 |
18 |
22.5 |
1-2 |
6.5 |
8 |
10 |
13 |
17 |
20 |
25 |
1-2-2 |
7 |
9 |
10.5 |
14 |
17.5 |
21 |
26 |
1-2-2-2 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
16 |
20 |
24 |
30 |
2 |
9 |
11 |
13.5 |
18 |
22.5 |
27 |
34 |
2-2-2-3 |
9 |
11.5 |
14 |
18 |
23 |
28 |
35 |
2-2-3 |
10 |
12.5 |
15 |
20 |
25 |
30 |
37.5 |
2-3 |
10.5 |
13 |
16 |
21 |
27 |
32 |
40 |
2-3-3 |
11 |
14 |
16.5 |
22 |
27.5 |
33 |
41 |
2-3-3-3 |
12 |
15 |
18 |
24 |
30 |
36 |
45 |
3 |
13 |
16 |
26 |
19.5 |
26 |
32 |
39 |
3-3-3-4 |
13.5 |
16.5 |
20 |
26.5 |
33.5 |
40 |
50 |
3-3-4 |
14 |
17 |
21 |
28 |
35 |
42 |
52 |
3-4 |
14.5 |
18 |
22 |
29 |
36 |
43.5 |
55 |
3-4-4 |
15 |
18.5 |
22.5 |
30 |
37 |
45 |
56 |
3-4-4-4 |
16 |
20 |
24 |
32 |
40 |
48 |
60 |
4 |
17 |
21 |
25.5 |
34 |
42 |
51 |
63 |
4-4-4-5 |
17 |
21.5 |
26 |
34 |
43 |
52 |
64.5 |
4-4-5 |
18 |
22.5 |
27 |
36 |
45 |
54 |
67 |
4-5 |
18.5 |
23.5 |
28 |
37 |
47 |
56 |
70.5 |
4-5-5 |
19 |
23.5 |
28.5 |
38 |
47 |
57 |
71 |
4-5-5-5 |
20 |
25 |
30 |
40 |
50 |
60 |
75 |
5 |
Not definitive, compiled from many sources. Use at your own descretion.
|